Patek Philippe vs Vacheron Constantin: Aquanaut Travel Time vs Overseas Dual Time; this battle rages across four time zones! Today on Versus, Tim Mosso compares dual time luxury watches in order to determine the ultimate high horology travel watch. Two stainless steel standards with impeccable pedigrees and full-time wrist potential will vie for watch buyer approval and the win in our latest Versus watch comparison.

The Patek Philippe Aquanaut Travel Time 5164A-001 bowed at Baselworld 2011. As a complication for which the Patek Philippe Nautilus model line had no answer, the 5164A helped the relatively young Aquanaut collection move out from beneath the shadow of its older brother. The Aquanaut Travel Time retains the 120-meter water resistance of the core 5167A, but the Travel Time adds a second independent time zone, dual day-night displays, and a clever system for adjusting the reference time.

Patek Philippe equips the Travel Time with a rubber composite strap that matches the “geosphere” cut of the Aquanaut dial. The watch includes a full stainless steel deployant clasp for security on the wrist. The 5164A case isn’t as finely detailed as that of the Nautilus, but it does feature strong lines, full lugs, and robust crown guards. Even better, the triggers for the travel time function blend seamlessly into the lines of the case.

Each Aquanaut Travel Time includes a dial with a “geosphere” cut and a metallic gradient fade. The silver metallic gleam of the center dial fades nearly to black at the outer edge. White gold Arabic numerals permit easy reading of time, and large amounts of Super Luminova paint are applied to enable easy reading at night. The radial date display and dual AM/PM displays permit rapid reading of both local and reference time zones. The skeleton hour hand for the reference time zone can be hidden behind the solid local hour when a second time zone is not required.

The Patek Philippe manufacture caliber 324 SC FUS is an automatic movement with a 35-45 hour power reserve. It includes both a free-sprung Gyromax balance and a Spiromax silicon hairspring. The movement is adjusted in six positions and bears the Patek Philippe seal; both precision and finish are commensurate to Patek Philippe’s reputation.

Vacheron Constantin launched its third generation Overseas model line at SIHH in 2016. The Overseas sports watches have become a major attraction to younger watch buyers, and the generation three models were designed to elevate the Overseas to the level of Audemars Piguet and Patek Philippe. This Overseas Dual Time was part of a follow-up series that debuted in 2018.

With a 41mm stainless steel case, the Overseas Dual Time is more versatile than its hulking proportions suggest. On the wrist, the integration of case and bracelet results in a seamless appearance without ergonomic compromises. This steel model features standard accessory clasps in leather and rubber, a deployant clasp in steel for the straps, and a full stainless steel bracelet. Quick-release lugs enable rotation between these options without any resort to strap tools.

Vacheron Constantin’s Overseas Dual Time can be ordered with several dial colors, and case metals, but this steel example with silver dial represents the most popular combination. The silver sunburst dial features blackened hands and indices for easy reading. Unlike the Patek Philippe, the Overseas Dual Time’s reference time zone hand cannot be hidden when not in use, and the day-night indicator relates to the reference time zone only.

Inside the case, Vacheron has equipped the Overseas Dual with a manufacture caliber 5110DT. Previous generations of the Overseas employed F. Piguet, Jaeger-LeCoultre, and Girard-Perregaux calibers, but the third generation uses in-house movements almost exclusively. This automatic caliber includes a 60-hour power reserve, the Geneva Hallmark, and five-position adjustment. The Overseas Dual Time employs a screw down crown in order to achieve 150-meter water resistance. Despite the sapphire display caseback, caliber 5110 DT boasts 25,000 amperes per meter antimagnetism thanks to a paramagnetic ring around the case.

Vacheron Constantin vs Patek Philippe starts now!