Breitling has been a luxury sports watch standout for decades. In 2004, Breitling launched the 44mm Chronomat Evolution chronograph as the 21st century to its game-saving comeback model from the 1980s. Bigger and more overtly luxurious than its forerunner, this stainless steel Breitling Chronomat Evolution looks the part of a premium challenger to the best from Rolex, IWC, and Omega.

Since its 1982 reboot under brand savior Ernest Schneider, Breitling has been propelled by the success of its Chronomat series. While the Navitimer is the icon and the Superocean flies Grenchen’s flag in the mammoth dive watch sector, the Chronomat series is Breitling's sales leader.

Given its breadwinner status, it's no surprise that the 2004-2007 Chronomat Evolution sports all of the signatures of a flagship model. The 44mm case is broader and tougher than the 40mm original. Larger and more legible indices grace the dial; sunken sub-dials relieve the crowding of the earlier Chronomat’s dial.

More than a bigger package, the “Evo” offers additional capability: water resistance increases from 100 meters on the original to 300 meters in the Chronomat Evolution. Screw-down chronograph pushers contribute to the dramatic jump in hermeticity, and their hunkered profile better suits the character of a burly sports watch.
Breilting understands that icons are sacrosanct in Swiss watch making, so all defining elements of the original Breitling Chronomat are retained in the Evolution. The signature “domed onion” crown and stepped “rider” tabs of the bezel are retained. Screwed-in bezel construction is visually distinctive and ensures that even a mighty blow won’t snap the bezel off its ratchet track (competing sports watches rarely embrace this pricy precaution).

Likewise, the versatile character of the original Chronomat endures in the Evolution. It remains a sports watch that splits the difference between a pilot's watch and a diver. While the 1982 Chronomat chronograph was designed with input from Italy’s Frecce Tricolore military aerobatic squadron, the screw-down crown, dive watch-caliber water resistance, and unidirectional rotating bezel ensured equal competence as a dive watch. The Chronomat Evolution maintains each of these traits.
The dial is key. Breitling's big boy features surprising nuance and high-grade detailing when examined at length. A rich anthracite metallic dial incorporates a subtle concentric circular guilloche inner pattern, applied polished indexes, and contrasting black sub-dials combine for a watch face with immense charisma. The concave tachymeter scale slopes down from the distinctive Breitling bezel “chimney” and provides a key visual transition. The cumulative effect of the such refinments is striking, and it confirms Breitling's equal regard for micro as well as macro design quality.
Inside the Breitling Chronomat Evolution's massive carapace, the Breitling caliber 13 keeps the time at 28,800 VpH. Based on the tried-and-true ETA/Vajoux 7750, the 25 jewel caliber 13 is a workhorse movement for a hard-working sports watch. Automatic winding, hacking (stop) seconds, a chronograph, COSC chronometer certification, and a jump-date complete this high-content caliber.

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