Chronograph vs GMT - The Watch Wars
Watches Tonight with Tim Mosso
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40m
Tim Mosso explains how to shop for your first luxury watch. Buying a first watch involves research, exploration, negotiation, setting priorities, and setting a budget. Many first-time watch buyers choose complications, and those complications usually involve chronographs and GMTs. Tonight's show explains how to evaluate the options and make your first complicated watch purchase.
GMT watches are popular because they're useful, they bask in the reflected glamor of travel to exotic lands, and the relatively accessible prices of many dual-time watches. To be sure, there's a difference between a true GMT and a dual time, but for practical purposes, it makes sense to combine them. The Tudor Black Bay 58 GMT offers excellent quality and pricing, attractive design, a versatile fit, and Rolex-level functionality. While smaller than a Rolex GMT-Master II, the chronometer-certified Black Bay 58 includes 200-meter water resistance, a 65-hour power reserve, and a 24-hour calculator bezel just like its more famous brother. At $4,950 on a three-link bracelet or $4,675 on a strap.
The Omega Speedmaster Professional isn't necessarily a starter watch - astronauts won't use much else on space walks - but it's often an attainable goal for first time watch buyers. At $7,300 on a bracelet, the hesalite crystal standard Omega Moonwatch is a financial stretch but reasonably accessible when preowned options are considered. The Speedmaster Professional often gets compared to the Rolex Daytona, but in an era when even a basic steel Daytona starts at $16,000, the rivalry is only a symbolic one.
As of 2021, the 42mm stainless steel Omega Speedmaster Professional benefits from significant upgrades in the form of a robust new bracelet, a clasp with a sliding micro-adjuster, and Omega caliber 3861. The new movement includes features never previously included on a Speedmaster Professional including hacking seconds, a co-axial escapement, a free sprung balance, a silicon hairspring, and a Master Chronometer (METAS) certification. Still distantly Lemania-based, the new Moonwatch retains that critical bloodline and link to its past.
Learn how to buy your first watch, chat live, and GMTs and Chronographs tonight on Watches Tonight.
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