How to Collect Luxury Watches Without The Hype
Watches Tonight with Tim Mosso
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29m
Luxury watch collectors join Watchbox host, Tim Mosso as "Watches Tonight" tackles hype and how to beat it. Watch collectors know that Audemars Piguet and Patek Philippe dominate the discussions of online watch communities, and most of that talk, in turn, relates to just a handful of watch models. Tonight, Tim offers alternatives to avoid burnout from excessive AP Royal Oak and Patek Philippe Nautilus hype.
The 1976 Patek Philippe Nautilus followed AP's Royal Oak by four model years, but in the modern era, it is the Patek sports watch that has become the point of reference. Meteoric surges in Nautilus 5711 values were the standout trend of 2019, and this sudden interest in a 43 year-old style led to a flood of similar models from other brands. In an instant, "integrated bracelet" steel sports watches became as hot as the Rolex Daytona. As a result, watch collectors of patience and open mind enjoy superior options that cost less and offer more than the Nautilus.
Czepek is an old name but a new watch brand. 2020 marked Czepek's first step into the sports watch marketplace with the Czepek Antarctique Terre Adelie. This 40.5mm steel sports watch boasts beauty, superb proportions, surpassing detail, plenty of water resistance, and an outstanding movement created by an elite team of watchmakers. With a retail price of $18,900, the Czepek Antarctique is a no-compromise alternative to the Patek Philippe Nautilus for a fraction of the price.
Audemars Piguet's Royal Oak is an icon, but that signature shape inhabits many model lines. Most watch collectors realize that there are two primary types of classic (i.e., non-Offshore) Royal Oaks: mainstream automatics and "Jumbos."
For watch collectors who covet the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak "Jumbo" (15202, currently), the logical alternative is the $11,900 Bulgari Octo Finissimo Satin Polish. New for 2020, this stainless steel Octo Finissimo features new material, new case finishing styles, and an upgrade to 100-meters of rated water resistance. With a 60-hour power reserve courtesy of micro rotor automatic caliber BVL138, the newest Bulgari men's watch is a compelling value and a viable alternative to the Royal Oak Jumbo.
The AP Royal Oak 15500 follows in the footsteps of the 15400, the 15300, and even the mid-size Royal Oak 14790 from the 80s and 90s. All of those were volume-production models designed to be more robust, more practical, and more mainstream than the Jumbo. Today's 41mm reference 15500 launched at SIHH 2019, and it combines a cleaner grande tapisserie dial with a new automatic caliber 4302.
In lieu of the new 15500, a watch buyer with an eye for design should consider the 2020 H. Moser & Cie Streamliner Centre Seconds. Moser has achieved excellence by adopting the "integrated bracelet" genre without plagiarizing the segment leaders. The Moser Streamliner is perfectly sized at 40m, resplendent with its fume sunburst "Matrix Green" no-date dial, and handsomely unified with its distinctive interlocking-link bracelet. While notes of Omega Speedsonic "Lobster Tail" and Ebel Classic Wave are evident in the Moser bracelet design, the totality is Moser's own. An automatic caliber HMC200 provides 72 hours of power reserve and sturdy engineering for this sports watch; water resistance is 120 meters.
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