Tim Mosso's "Watches Tonight" tackles an age-old question that has bedeviled watch collectors; is the Rolex Datejust a dress watch? Why yes, the Datejust is a dress watch even in its stainless steel variants -- and it's not alone. From Patek Philippe to Vacheron Constantin, luxury watch brands are offering more and more dress watches in robust steel. And Rolex's role-splitting Datejust was over 70 years ahead of the trend.

Launched in 1945, the Rolex Datejust was a pioneer from the beginning. Initially, the watch combined automatic winding with a precise jumping date that was always "just" relative to the indicated time. Designed to celebrate the 40th anniversary or "jubilee" of the Rolex company the Datejust immediately impressed with its range of use. Due to the use of steel cases, the Rolex "Perpetual" automatic winding system and the "Oyster" water resistant case, the Datejust was capable of meeting 2021 "sports watch" definitions from the beginning.; therein lies the confusion.

From Winston Churchill to Tom Cruise, the Datejust likely had graced more famous wrists than any luxury watch model from any watch brand. But is the Datejust a dress watch? Was it ever? And without a doubt, the Rolex Datejust has been a dress watch from the beginning.

At 36mm in its most traditional form, the Datejust is sized to suit all wrists - male and female. While smaller models have been offered the 41mm Datejust variants are common, the original case size is a masterpiece of proportioning. Its elegance lends it to feats of discretion that a Submariner, GMT Master II, or Daytona cannot approach; subtlety is a core value for dress watch enthusiasts.

Despite robust resistance to shock, magnetism, and water, the Datejust purports to serve no specific utilitarian role; other Rolex watches cater to occupations that range from engineering to aviation to cave exploration. The Datejust is durable but not task-specific. Moreover, Rolex.com itself classes the Datejust as part of its "classic watch" series and the model line itself as the "classic watch of reference." In other words, the Datejust is a dress watch.

While the Rolex Cellini collection is the Geneva giant's official "dress watch" collection, it shares space among the designated "classic watches" with the Datejust family. Cellini is described not as the sole Rolex formal timepiece but as "the classical watch."

When equipped with the Rolex Jubilee bracelet, the Datejust's grace is magnified and its haute couture mission self-evident.

Why do so many watch collectors doubt the sartorial formality of the Datejust? Simple: it's versatile. Any individual 36-41mm example of the modern Datejust is mechanically identical to the Rolex Submariner in durability, power reserve, shock resistance, and magnetic resilience. Add 100-meter water resistance, and the Datejust's sporting credentials impress. Beyond those traits, a 2021 Rolex Datejust can be configured with a sporting Oyster bracelet, a luminescent dial, and all-steel construction. Thusly configured, the Rolex Datejust becomes a two-way option for any wrist and any occasion.

Rolex Datejust references encompassed by this video include the all-steel or primarily steel references 126234, 126233, 126231, 126200.

Today's episode focuses on the evergreen Datejust and steel dress watches in general. The 2021 Breitling Premier B09 "pistachio" dial, the Patek Philippe Calatrava 6007A, the Patek Philippe 5212A Weekly Calendar, the Vacheron Constantin Fifty Six collection, the Vacheron Constantin Cornes De Vache 1955, and the Vacheron Constantin Quai de L'ille are included in the discussion.