Tonight's show is a celebration of IWC watches past and present. Tim Mosso, who once built a formidable mono-brand watch collection, imagines what his dream set of IWC watches would look like. Vintage watches, modern classics, sports watches and high complications are on the shopping list. Can a Richemont brand struggling to balance tradition and trends really be this appealing? Watches Tonight investigates.

Sports watches are hot right now - especially the kind with steel cases, integrated bracelets, and real or imagined links to designer Gerald Genta. Surprisingly, the IWC Ingenieur of the last decade mostly referenced the 1950s and 1960s version of the model rather than the definitive Ingenieur SL model 1832 of 1932. That design,, which truly was designed by Genta in his Royal Oak and Nautilus period, lapsed from the IWC watch catalog for years until the 2023 IWC Ingeniuer reference 3289.

Launched as a return in earnest to the Gerald Genta style of IWC Ingenieur, the new 40mm model incorporates all of the elements that made the original a classic. The distinctive dial texture returns in several shades including a stunning green that reads as teal. 100-meter water resistance, a soft iron antimagnetic cage to protect the movement, and full integration of case and bracelet define this attractively designed watch. For fans of movements, an automatic caliber 32111 provides five days of power reserve.

There are some problems with IWC's new Engineer's watch. First retail prices of $11,700 for steel and $14,600 for titanium are absurd. The same movement is used in Baume et Mercier Clifton series watches that cost under $3,500. Second, the clasp is basic and appears generic; it's a cheap detail on an expensive watch.

While Tim loves the IWC Portuguese (Portugieser), his fantasy IWC watch is the rare reference 3770 Grande Complication. With 42.2mm platinum case, an aventurine glass moonphase, a chronograph, minute repeater by Renaud et Papi, and Kurt Klaus perpetual calendar, this was the ultimate IWC watch of the 1990s and 2000s. The platinum model 3770-17 with black dial and alligator strap is the last watch he could ever desire. It's more than Tim's grail watch; it might be his exit watch.

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