Tudor Watch, Rolex's junior brand, filled the vacancy in the market created when its bigger parent moved upscale to challenge Patek Philippe and Richard Mille. On tonight's show, Tim discusses the distinctive features of Tudor watches including the Tudor Black Bay, Pelagos dive watch, and the Heritage Advisor alarm.

Tudor's relaunch in the 2010s was built on the back of vintage tribute watches. The Tudor Black Bay dive watch of 2012 capitalized on the nostalgic momentum of the previous Heritage Chronograph. The Black Bay is both a tribute to vintage Tudor Submariners and the Rolex Submariners with which they shared cases, bracelets, and clasps. It represented a clean break with the marginally successful Hydronaut dive watches of the 2000s. While Rolex does not create vintage tribute watches, Tudor thrives on that genre. In 2015, the Black Bay gained a Tudor manufacture movement, and the Tudor brand entered a new era of upscale refinement.

2021 brought two exceptional variants of the Tudor Black Bay 58, the Ag925 in sterling silver and the Black Bay 18K in yellow gold. The taupe dialed Black Bay FiftyEight in sterling silver proved to be as inspired and original as the seminal 2011 Panerai Bronzo. The silver Black Bay also proved that the series had plenty of room to keep growing. In 18-karat yellow gold, the Black Bay touched Rolex-like prices with a 2024 retail of $18,000. However, its rich combination of a green dial, matching bezel, and bright yellow gold is endearing and opulent; this Tudor watch looks worthy of nearly $20K. Moreover, its modestly sized case and warm leather strap create an ambiance of tasteful luxury, not ostentation.

Additional Tudor watches of note are the Pelagos FXD Marine Nationale of 2021 and the Tudor X Alinghi Red Bull Racing Pelagos FXD Chronograph. The Pelagos FXD was designed for the use of France's elite amphibious "Commando Hubert" unit. The fixed lugs, fully-calibrated bezel, no-date dial, and MN21 caseback reflected the actual requirements of the military unit, which is an actual user of the watch. In contrast, the Red Bull Racing Pelagos FXD Chronograph is a luxury diving chronograph with regatta in mind and the needs of racing sailors at heart. As a diving chronograph, it is a style of watch that Rolex does not sell and which Omega's higher pricing cannot rival.

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