What Are "New Vintage" Watches?
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Vintage "big crown" Rolex Submariners, Patek Philippe 2499s, and AP Royal Oak 5402 "Jumbos" have ruled the vintage watch market for decades. But the passage of time and common sense dictate that age and nostalgia eventually overtake newer watches. While the vintage watches of yesterday likely will never lose their appeal, newer watches built after the "Quartz Crisis" appeal to younger watch collectors who came of age in the 1990s and 2000s. The watches from that era are "new vintage" watches, and they are the subject of tonight's show.
Tim Mosso features a broad cross section of Omega watches, Audemars Piguet, and Patek Philippe. The Omega Seamaster Diver 300M, launched in 1993, soared to international fame and commercial success thanks to its association with James Bond during Pierce Brosnan's turn as Agent 007.
The 41mm dive watch feels like a product of a different era with its printed dial, tritium dial fade, and a pre-co-axial Omega caliber 1120. The success of the model made it the best selling Omega Seamaster of all time, and the reference 2531.80.00 remains venerated to this day. Hard as it is to believe, "Goldeneye," the first Bond film to feature Omega, debuted 30 years ago. That's the difference between 1999 and the Moon landing.
Patek Philippe is best known for its Nautilus and Aquanaut sports watches, but it stretched the definition of the term "sports watch" with 1996's Patek Philippe Neptune 5080. Neither purely a dress watch nor clearly a sports watch, the elaborate Neptune incorporated a fully integrated steel bracelet, engine-turned bezel, and an array of tritium-lumed dials in various colors. The Neptune's bracelet was intricately detailed and elaborately decorated. While controversial in its day, the Neptune represents a modern opportunity for collectors looking to stake their claim to a rare but not yet exorbitantly priced vintage Patek Philippe.
Vacheron Constantin was not known for sports watches in 1996. But the ancient Geneva maison stretched itself to issue the Overseas, a true 150-meter water resistant sports watch with an integrated bracelet. Designed under Vincent Kaufman and Dino Modolo, the Overseas echoed Jorg Hysek's 1977 Vacheron Constantin 222, but it was an original effort. The 37mm Overseas 42040 and later 42042 came with tritium dials initially and a vast array of dial designs - salmon being the most sought. Inside, a Girard-Perregaux automatic caliber 3100 was repackaged as Vacheron Constantin's 1310 and 1311; both variants were COSC certified Swiss chronometers. To date, the first generation Vacheron Overseas remains the only Overseas to feature a COSC certification and a tritium dial
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