Watch today’s episode of “Watches Tonight” with Tim Mosso for a discussion of Rolex watches and the 2021 Omega Seamaster. These topics and watch collector wrist shots are live tonight—don’t miss it!

The Omega Seamaster (13:12)
The 2021 Omega Seamaster Diver 300M America's Cup Chronograph (reference 210.30.44.51.03.002) is a comprehensive overhaul of the new-for-2019 Omega Diver 300M Chronograph. In fact, the changes to the original watch are so far-ranging that they exceed the usual logos, branding, and edition numbers that characterize normal Omega limited editions. This new Seamaster Chronograph retails for $10,700, and that represents a colossal premium over the existing Diver 300M Chronograph sans-AC custom features. Can this Seamaster limited edition possibly be worth a $3,250 premium?

First, it's important that Omega has been releasing America's Cup editions of its Seamaster for over 20 years. This one is different. Start with the Quick Change strap system. This is Omega's first use of quick-release straps and bracelets, and all that is required is one pull of a trigger. Unlike similar systems from IWC, Cartier, and Hublot, Omega's system is contained entirely in the straps and bracelet links, so conventional aftermarket straps remain viable with this Seamaster Chronograph. The America's Cup Chronograph is delivered in a commemorative box with both the full stainless steel Seamaster bracelet and a blue rubber Omega strap.

Second, a new "Chrono Lock" mechanism has been developed for the new America's Cup Chronograph. This sliding switch at eight o'clock on the case will lock the chronograph functions for security when activated.

On the dial, Omega employs a blue ceramic dial with a new "hours disc" visible through an aperture under the chronograph minutes display. The chronograph minute counter now includes a regatta scale that enables intuitive "countdown" timing in advance of the match-start time for regatta racers. An America's Cup mug outline graces the counterweight of the chronograph seconds hand. Omega Master Co-Axial Caliber 9900 keeps the time.

Rolex: Watches You Won’t See (3:00)
Rolex watches are not exotic, artistically ornate, or aggressively complicated. Tonight, Tim discusses three no-go zones where Rolex watches never tread.

First, Rolex will not make a case out of any material but stainless steel or precious metal, so if you want a titanium dive watch or a ceramic chronograph, you will need to buy a Tudor watch. Second, Rolex does not build tribute or retro re-edition watches. So if you want a tribute to a 1958 Rolex 5510, you're going to need to buy a Tudor Black Bay or call Les Artisans de Geneve.

Finally, Rolex has no interest in Haute Horlogerie. If you want an elaborately skeletonized or engraved watch, Patek Philippe and Vacheron Constantin are your best bets inside of Geneva. And if tourbillon escapements or minute repeaters are your idea of high times with high horology, then Jaeger LeCoultre and Audemars Piguet should be on speed dial.

However, there is one craft-art that Rolex continues to practice at the level of haute joaillerie. You can absolutely buy a hand-set and hand-crafted Rolex GMT Master II 116759 paved with sapphires, diamonds, and rubies.