Zenith Chronomaster Sport Has Potential and Buying a $10,000 Watch
Watches Tonight with Tim Mosso
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38m
Tim Mosso returns to "Watches Tonight" and our global audience of luxury watch collectors. This evening, we discuss the new 2021 Zenith Chronomaster Sport from a historical perspective and bring Vacheron Constantin into the frame. A viewer asks Tim which $10,000 watch he should buy, and Tim offers three themed options. The next-generation Blancpain Fifty Fathoms is due as reference 5015 ages; what could the next generation of Blancpain dive watch be like? Finally, we share luxury watch collector wrist shots from our fans around the world.
Our previous episode of "Watches Tonight" addressed the recent release of Zenith's 2021 Chronomaster Sport with the El Primero 3600 movement. But while Zenith watches often emphasize movement over style, the appearance of this particular Zenith watch is surprisingly similar to the current Rolex Daytona. Does a derivative design consign a watch to lesser status among watch buyers? Not necessarily!
The 1977 Vacheron Constantin 222 sports watch hewed closely to the design themes established during the 1970s by Gerald Genta and others. But the Vacheron 222 offers in refinement and gravitas what it lacks in originality. Today, the 222 is recognized as a classic in its own right alongside the Patek Philippe Nautilus and Audemars Piguet Royal Oak. What began as a derivative design inspired by the Nautlilus, Royal Oak, and IWC Ingenieur has transformed into a valuable vintage watch investment and the inspiration for today's Vacheron Constantin Overseas sports watch family. And yes, the new Zenith Chronomaster Sport can follow the 222's path greatness.
Herman K. is a watch collector with a budget of $10,000 that's earmarked for one special watch. He reached out to Tim for recommendations, and three leaders emerged. A fine mass produced luxury watch option would be the discontinued 40mm stainless steel Rolex Milgauss 116400 white dial. It's collectible, versatile in style, rising in value, and still accessible enough to fit within a $10,000 budget.
The Kudoke 2 from German watchmaker Stefan Kudoke is a top-shelf hand-made luxury watch from a vaunted independent watch brand. At 39mm in stainless steel, this watch can pair handsomely with any attire and any wrist size. Its hand-finished movement offers all the grace expected from boutique horology, and a price of just over $10,000 puts this GPHG 2019 "Petite Aiguille" winner within reach.
All else equal, complicated watches cost more than simple ones. But the IWC GST Perpetual Calendar Chronograph 3756 is a rare affordable multi-complication from a legendary name in watchmaking. The 43mm stainless steel or titanium GST is a chronograph, a moonphase (in aventurine!), an automatic winder, an a mechanically programmed perpetual calendar. The calendar system was designed by celebrated IWC watchmaker Kurt Klaus, and it is user friendly for watch owners. With a 120-meter water resistance, the GST reference is a true sports watch; its full integrated bracelet adds durability. And this IWC watch has rarity in its favor; production spanned only four model years.
Our final feature highlights the aging Blancpain Fifty Fathoms dive watch and speculates about how it might be redesigned in its next generation. Originally launched in 1953, the Fifty Fathoms joined the Rolex Submariner as one of the founding members of the modern dive watch club. But whereas Rolex redesigned the Submariner for 2020, Blancpain's current Fifty Fathoms 5015 has been in production with few changes since 2007.
Tim believes that the next Fifty Fathoms should be smaller than the current 45mm; its case finish should be brushed metal only; date and no-date models should be offered; the X71 bracelet should be updated with a proper diving clasp and a dive extension system; the caliber 1150 should be retired; the caliber 1315 should be included with the smaller cases; pricing should remain under $15,000. Given the success of the 40.3mm Blancpain Fifty Fathoms special editions such as the MIL-SPEC and the Hodinkee, a case of no more than 42mm would be ideal.
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