"Luxury" Watches vs High Horology: Watch Shopping For Watch Collectors
Watches Tonight with Tim Mosso
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34m
Luxury watch collectors join Watchbox host, Tim Mosso as "Watches Tonight" tackles Rolex watch waiting lists, the definition of "luxury" watch, and how to shop for the watch collectors in you life this holiday season. As ever, our viewer wrist shots ensure that passionate connoisseurs put their mark on the show. Watch collectors, watch buyers, and watch enthusiasts know that "Watches Tonight" is YouTube's ultimate live forum for watch collectors.
Rolex dealer waiting lists are insane right now. With certain watches backordered to 2022, some dealers have decided to stop accepting new orders altogether. From the 2020 Rolex Submariner to unexpected hit of the 2020 Oyster Perpetual to the already endless queues for the GMT-Master and the Rolex Daytona, it seems as if every major Rolex model line demands delayed gratification from watch buyers.
And it's not just a Rolex problem: Audemars Piguet, Omega, Patek Philippe, H. Moser & Cie. and even A. Lange & Sohne now face backlogs as orders for popular models outstrip yearly production volumes.
The $26,000 question remains: should a watch collector get on a Rolex (or Patek, or AP, or Omega) dealer's waiting list, or is it better to pay an aftermarket premium and own a desired luxury watch immediately? Tim explores the reasons why a watch collector might choose to wait.
What is the difference between "luxury" horology and "high" horology? It's a relevant question as collectors, watch media, and even the brands themselves use these terms interchangeably at best or, at worst, to embellish product pitches.
Tim believes that "luxury" watches must meet a minimum requirement of being repairable indefinitely and privy to a lasting secondary market; they never depreciate to scrap or junk. In contrast, a "high" horology watch must meet elevated standards that encompass "luxury" watches but also include substantial hand-crafted content by material and value. No matter how expensive, a watch cannot be "high" horology if its added value and production both can be attributed to a machine rather than people. Minute repeaters, miniature painting, gem-set watches, engraved watches, meticulously hand-regulated watches, and watches with intricately-finished movements qualify as "high" horology.
How do you shop for a watch enthusiast during the 2020 holiday season? Simple: don't guess. If a watch collector in your life is fortunate enough to find a place on your holiday list, DO NOT attempt to buy that person a watch unless you know beforehand exactly what that watch enthusiast wants. Shopping together and wrapping the gift for the big day, gifting a store credit, or simply asking a collector what he (or possibly, she) wants. Short of an actual watch, consider giving your watch enthusiast a watch winder, a horological sculpture, accessory straps, a ticket to attend a watchmaking master class, a magazine subscription, a high-grade loupe, or book such as histories, collector guides, and brand profiles.
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