Tim Mosso's "Watches Tonight" returns with advice and insights for watch collectors of all experience levels. This evening's show covers the flawed but fabulous Breitling Navitimer, rare and collectible Patek Philippe watches, and the personal finance challenges of collecting luxury watches. All of this and watch collector wrist shots are featured here on YouTube's only live luxury watch forum!

The original Breitling Navitimer was launched in 1952 or 1954 depending on who you believe. Breitling's official debut claim names 1952, which means that watch collectors are one year removed from the Navitimer's 70th anniversary. What can we say about Breitling's most famous chronograph after seven decades?

What we *should* say is that the Navitimer chronograph is Breitling's answer to the Rolex Submariner no-date and the Omega Speedmaster Professional; the Navitimer is Breitling's corporate icon and a beacon to watch collectors. The famous circular slide rule flight computer -- essentially, a bezel that can multiply and divide -- continues to define the purpose and the appearance of a pilot's watch that is beloved of the genre's watch collectors.

That said, the Navitimer's iconic status is clouded by a few flaws in its model history, marketing mistakes, and in-house rivalry from other Breitling watch lines.

Google the term "Breitling Navitimer," and check the image result; there's just too many versions of the watch. Breitling needs a "core" Navitimer that represents the closest living descendant of the original AOPA Navitimer reference 806 from the 1950s. Watches like the Moonwatch, the Submariner, the AP Royal Oak, and the Patek Philippe Nautilus 5711 are consistent in design, size, and image over time. Breitling needs a full-time offering like the 2018 model year's limited edition Navitimer Reference 806 1959 Re-edition. A 40mm steel case, plexiglas crystal, manual wind movement, AOPA-winged, and black-register Navitimer should be available from Breitling without the constraints of a limited edition.

Today's Breitling watch company venerates the Navitimer, but other model lines have been the sales leaders for years. From 1983 an the onset of watch production under the Schneider family, Breitling's long-running bestseller was the Chronomat chronograph. The 2007 arrival of the SuperOcean Heritage dive watches created a new sales flagship, and those vintage-inspired Breitling dive watches have been the best selling model line for over a decade.

How should Breitling level the playing field against its other model lines -- to say nothing of Rolex or Omega? First, every Breitling Navitimer watch should come with a 10-year warranty. In an era that has seen watch warranties extend to five years at Omega and Rolex, Breitling could and should follow Oris's lead and offer ten-year warranties. And that should be exclusive to the Navitimer in order to leave no doubt that it's Breitling's flagship line. This could be done immediately.

Second, Breitling should begin reconsidering its 30-meter water resistance standard for the Navitimer chronographs. Today's watch collector demands that sports watches be secure for swimming, showers, and work around the yard. Even pilot's watches are expected to meet this standard. When a watch buyer looks at a Breitling Navitimer's 30-meter rating against 50-meters for the Moonwatch and 100-meters for the Rolex Daytona, he views it as a failing. In many instances, this lack of swimmable water resistance will cost Breitling a sale or divert the sale into the Chronomat or SuperOcean collections.

The original 1952 (or 54) Breitling Navitimer was a breakthrough pilot's watch because its famous slide rule bezel represented genuine utility to pilots who needed to calculate fuel consumption, ground speed, range, and climb rate in the cockpit. That's an exciting story, but it might require more imaginative storytelling in order to capture the imaginations of math-averse watch collectors in 2021.

And consider the storytelling; Breitling has spent much of the last 20 years making John Travolta the face of Breitling's pilot watch lines. And though Vinnie Barbarino is being phased out, Breitling remains too dependent on brand ambassadors to sell products. Rolex and Omega have brand ambassadors, but their role is that of window dressing; all paid Rolex and Omega endorsements are subordinate to the watches themselves. Celebrities come and go; the Submariner and Moonwatch are the stars at their brands.

Tonight's show also includes an extended discussion of buying luxury watches and spending within one's means. "Can you afford this watch?" is the question Tim poses to our global audience, and this episode includes a self-evaluation to assist in buying luxury watches without fear of financial strain.