For the first time in four years, Tim Mosso is a watch shopper in the market for his next luxury watch. The Sinn EZM 1.1 has been delivered to its next owner, and Tim finds himself shopping watches as varied as Omega and Patek Philippe. The Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch Grey Side of The Moon, long a personal favorite, finds itself at the head of the list of candidates. At the same time, two Patek Philippe calendar watches and a host of other watch models are under consideration. Will the Omega Speedmaster prevail?

The Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch Grey Side of the Moon (311.93.44.51.99.001) was launched at Baselworld 2014. The Grey Side followed naturally from 2013's blockbuster "Dark Side of The Moon, but the grey ceramic watch surpassed the original in almost every way. Omega gave the dial a subtle coarseness and granular texture. The scratch-proof 44.25mm ceramic case provides both light wrist feel and durability.

This Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch is larger and richer than the Speedmaster Professional used by NASA astronauts. Less stark than the Dark Side, the Grey Side added refinement in the form of a solid platinum dial with smoked white gold hour indices and hands. Both the dial and caseback are protected by sapphire crystals, and the tachymeter bezel -- as well as the crown logo - feature inlaid luminescent material. Omega fits the Speedmaster Moonwatch Grey Side of The Moon with a grey alligator leather strap paired with a full ceramic buckle and pin.

Internally, the Omega Speedmaster Grey Side of The Moon includes the Omega exclusive caliber 9300. This automatic chronograph caliber is derived from the 8500 family of Omega Co-Axial movements. Twin mainspring barrels ensure a power reserve of 60 hours and a flat torque curve for most of the running duration. Hacking seconds permits precise setting of the time, and a jumper system allows the owner to make independent adjustments to the hour hand while traveling. The movement is a COSC-certified Swiss chronometer with a co-axial escapement and an anti-magnetic silicon hairspring. Chronograph operation is controlled via column wheel and vertical clutch. The retail price of the Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch Grey Side of The Moon is $12,000

At the upper end of his wishlist, Tim loves the Patek Philippe 5236P-001 "inline perpetual calendar. This 41.3mm platinum dress watch was one of the highlights of Patek Philippe's 2021 wristwatch novelties. The case design draws heavily from historic Patek Philippe perpetual calendar wristwatches including the 3448 and 3450. The inline calendar dial pays homage to Patek Philippe pocket watch perpetual calendars such as references 725, 699, 843, and 844.

Patek Philippe created a new movement, caliber 31-260 PS QL, for the 5236P. Although based on the caliber from the 5235 regulator, the new movement includes a more forceful mainspring to drive the perpetual calendar, new bridge architecture for aesthetics, and a more efficient platinum micro-rotor in place of the regulator's gold rotor. Due to the use of a micro-rotor, the automatic movement is as thin as a manual wind caliber, and the view of the movement is unobstructed.

Externally, Patek Philippe 5236P combines its vintage-style case with a modern dial. The gradient fade and blue color are up-to-the-minute for 2022 watch buyer's tastes, and the unique inline calendar imparts clean symmetry to the overall balance. All hands and hour indices are crafted from 18-karat white gold for long-lasting resistance to tarnish. As with the 5235, the Patek 5236P features a vertical brushed pattern to emphasize the metallic basis of the dial. The retail price of the Patek Philippe 5236P is $135,020.

Relevant watch references include 311.93.44.51.99.001, 5236P-001, 5235G-001, 311.92.44.51.01.003, 311.92.44.30.01.001, 311.92.44.51.01.004, 311.92.44.51.01.006, 310.30.42.50.01.001, 310.32.42.50.01.001, 310.30.42.50.01.002, 310.32.42.50.01.002, 5235R-001

All of this plus watch collector wrist shots will be featured in this episode of "Watches Tonight!"

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