The 2023 Rolex watches are here, and unless you're crazy about Daytonas and Emoji dials, it was a slow year for the biggest brand in watchmaking. Tonight, Tim discusses watches from Patek Philippe, Zenith, Jaeger LeCoultre, TAG Heuer, and more. This is the NO ROLEX episode for luxury watch collectors who believe that life is their oyster with a lower case "o."

Patek Philippe made a huge splash with 2023 watches across most model lines, but the star might be a variant of the existing Patek Philippe 5316. Now dubbed the reference 5316/50P-001, the 40.2mm platinum grande complication features a spectacular smoked sapphire dial. Launched in 2017 as the 5316P, this retrograde perpetual calendar, tourbillon, and minute repeater is the descendant of the famous 1993 Patek Philippe 5016 - the most complicated Patek Philippe wristwatch of its era. Pricing is offered on inquiry only, but the dollar figure promises to fall near or beyond seven figures.

TAG Heuer generally sells watches with retail prices between $3,500 and $10,000. But on occasion, the company releases a special watch with a price tag to match. This year, the $24,050 TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Tourbillon celebrates the 60th anniversary of the Heuer Carrera chronograph in high style and haute horlogerie. The 42mm steel chronograph includes an automatic movement with a flying tourbillon, a column wheel chronograph, and impressive 100-meter water resistance. The color scheme of the Carrera tourbillon dial recalls the famous Gulf Oil racing liveries that has graced many of the most famous race cars from the late 1960s to the present day.

Oris makes little pretense about competing with Rolex, but that doesn't mean the German-Swiss watchmakers from Hölstein are above trolling the giant of Geneva. While the green bezel 2003 Rolex Submariner 16610LV is nicknamed the "Kermit" by Rolex collectors, the 2023 Oris ProPilot X Kermit Edition literally hands pride of place to the world's most famous Muppet. This 39mm integrated bracelet sports watch includes a "Kermit the Frog" green dial, and Kermit himself appears in emoji form on the date disc on the first of each month. Automatic Oris calibre 400 is exclusive to the brand, boasts a 5-day power reserve, 2,250 Gauss antimagnetism, and permits Oris to offer a ten-year warranty. The Oris ProPilot X Kermit Edition has a retail price of $4,600, and that includes a special Muppets-branded display box.

Learn all about the new watches as Watches And Wonders 2023 in tonight's interactive program!

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